What shape should trees be trimmed?

Having trees on your property is a long-term investment. On the one hand, they add value to the property, are aesthetically pleasing and create a healthy environment, but if not properly looked after, trees can become a hassle.

Tree maintenance is the most important investment for your tree’s health. Making sure that your tree is getting enough sun, and exposure to good soil and water, will help it grow strong. But what happens when the tree starts to grow wild? That’s when the question comes down to tree trimming or tree shaping.

Tree trimming sounds like what it is, a trim for trees. This is essential to the health of trees as they grow. One of the main reasons this method is chosen is for aesthetics. Trimming is a relatively quick fix to a tree that’s beginning to look overgrown.

Choosing a good service is important though because you want to make sure that you don’t trim the wrong branches and end up having a lopsided tree. Trimming is also a good choice if you’re beginning to see dead branches throughout the tree. This could be signs that your tree is sick and if the branch is cut away correctly you can save the tree before disease can spread.

It’s important to keep an eye on dead branches and call for service when you see this as they can also fall off and become a liability on your property.

The final reason for trimming is overall health. Keeping branches from rubbing up against each other and leaving enough space for them to grow allows for air-flow, which helps the tree mature as expected.

If you decide that tree trimming is the best method for your tree then it’s time to call an expert. It is possible to do the job on your own, but there are some factors to keep in mind. Regardless of who takes the plunge, trimming should occur during a tree’s dormant season. This allows you to cut away the excess while preventing damage. This is also a good way to keep insects out of open wounds, so your tree isn’t vulnerable when bugs arrive during the warmer season.

A good rule of thumb is to work from the top down. Take a look at the larger branches and make sure they are manageable. Anything too large should be handled by a professional so you remain safe and the cut is made cleanly.

Trimming is a great method for maintaining the trees on your property. A quick call to your local tree service can give you the security you need to keep your trees healthy and stable without putting yourself in harm’s way.

Tree Shaping

The mention of tree shaping often leads to the question, what exactly is tree shaping? In fact, tree shaping is a method of growing trees into particular shapes and patterns by encouraging branch growth in a particular way. There are the more elaborate methods of interwoven trees that are pieces of art, but it is also a method of making sure your trees remain aesthetically pleasing, and don’t become a hazard to your property as they grow.

Tree shaping has a vast history and has been practiced for centuries. One of the oldest methods of tree shaping is aeroponic growing. This method was used in ancient times to encourage roots and branches to form bridges. Mixed into the roots were rocks, sticks, and soil that formed sturdy ‘bridges’ out of the trees.

The next method is instant tree shaping which is used with mature trees that are still pliable. In this method, the branches are bent into the desired design and held in place until they begin to form correctly. Bending is often used in this technique, but it’s important to have the right kind of tree and not too much pressure so the branch snaps.

The final method is gradual tree shaping which is used on young trees. This method takes longer since it begins with the seed of the tree, but can also be purposed into more complex shapes since you start when the tree is young. Tree shaping today takes the form of arborsculpture or the modern form of a living piece of art.

The common techniques of tree shaping are framing, grafting, and pruning. Framing uses different structures to encourage the tree’s growth into the design. This includes wire systems, wooden rigs, or using the tree itself.

The next is grafting. Grafting is a technique where branches or pieces of the tree are cut away and are then grafted together. When successful, the branch then melds with the other and a new shape is formed. The final method is pruning which is used alongside other methods as well. This technique balances out the design of the tree to encourage the growth in the correct directions.

Shaping a tree throughout its life can ensure a lasting tree that won’t begin to lean or fall as it gets older and therefore ensures the value of your property.

Whichever you choose, a tree specialist will provide you with the service you need. If you want to invest in your property by adding an artistic element, tree shaping is the service for you. For a standard health check on your trees, tree trimming is the way to go. Having your trees shaped when they are young can help ensure they grow strong and a regular trimming can ensure that the tree is maintained once it has a solid trunk. For both services, it’s best to consult and hire an expert to ensure best results.

When picking up a pruning saw and getting to work trimming trees, many questions may run through your mind. Cut this branch? What about that one? Is this the right time to prune? What if I remove too many branches? Having the answers to all your questions will give you the confidence to add longevity to your trees and beauty to your landscape through thoughtful pruning.

Correctly trimming trees and proper tree pruning techniques are part art and part science. Once you know some of the science behind it, you can trust your eye for the artistic elements of pruning. Then, take a deep breath and start making your cuts.

Approach every pruning situation by assessing the need for a professional arborist. Then, leave these tasks to the professionals with the equipment and advanced training for tricky pruning jobs.

• Tree trimming near power lines.
• Removal of large dead or dangling branches.
• Big branches near homes or buildings.

Late fall and early winter are the best times to prune deciduous trees (most evergreen trees should be lightly pruned in late winter). The bare branches allow you to see the tree structure clearly. Avoid major pruning during "maple sugar time" (January through early March in most areas).

Beetles that attack oak trees are active from late spring through midsummer. If oak wilt is present in your region, don't prune your oaks during this period.

Prune away dead or diseased branches whenever you notice them. Waiting until fall or winter to prune these branches could cause further tree damage or infection in the case of diseased branches. (When pruning diseased branches, dip the pruning blade in a 10 percent bleach solution between each cut to avoid spreading disease.)

Larger branches are best removed in three steps:

• Make a shallow cut on the underside of the branch, about 4-5 inches from the trunk.
• Cut the branch off about 2-3 inches from the initial cut. When the weight of the unsupported branch causes it to fall, the initial cut keeps the bark from peeling down the side of the trunk.
• Make the final cut, removing the remaining stub. Make this cut just outside the branch collar: the slightly swollen area where the branch and trunk are joined together.

Natural growth patterns, storm damage, and specific landscape needs can create unique tree pruning challenges. Here are the most common situations you may encounter and how best to handle them.

Rob Cardillo

Some trees naturally form narrow, V-shape junctures. While these narrow branch arrangements sometimes weaken the tree's overall structure, not all require corrective pruning.

Native elms, hornbeams, serviceberries, hickories, and Osage orange trees are generally strong enough or small enough that little corrective pruning is needed for structural purposes, except to remove crossing branches that might rub.

Other trees, particularly maples, flowering pears, ashes, willows, and basswoods, should be watched closely and given early training to avoid structural problems as they grow larger. Narrow, V-shape junctures are inherently weak and are subject to breaking off in wind or ice storms. To prevent V-shapes from causing problems, remove one of the stems while the tree is young.

The following is a list of trees that tend to form V-shape junctures:

• Basswoods (Tilia spp.)
• Elm (Ulmus spp.)
• Flowering pear (Pyrus calleryana)
• Hackberry (Celtis spp.)
• Hornbeam (Ostrya spp. and Carpinus spp.)
• Locust (Gleditsia spp. and Robinia spp.)
• Mulberry (Morus spp.)
• Osage orange (Maclura pomifera)
• Redbud (Cercis spp.)
• Serviceberry (Amelanchier spp.)
• Some ashes (Fraxinus spp.)
• Some hickories (e.g., Carya cordiformis)
• Some maples (e.g., Acer saccharum, A. saccharinum)
• Willow (Salix spp.)
• Zelkova (Zelkova spp.)

Marty Baldwin

As a survival instinct, some trees send up new shoots from the ground. Over time, these fast-growing stems can weaken the main tree. Remove suckers before they're 6 to 12 inches tall by cutting them off at ground level.

The best way to avoid annual suckering challenges is to avoid planting trees that commonly produce suckers. A reputable nursery or landscaper will be a great help.

Jay Wilde

Forked trunks are less stable than a single trunk and often grow together, leaving a hollow cavity where insects and rot can further weaken the tree. The tree will eventually split, or one of the trunks will break off.

To prevent this, remove one of the forked trunks while the tree is still young. Cut as close to ground level as possible, making the cut at a slight angle, so rainwater drains off the stump. Take care not to damage the bark on the remaining trunk.

Jay Wilde

Too many branches bunched together can quickly weaken a tree. Small, weak branches limit the development of larger ones. Removing excessive branches, often growing laterally, will give the remaining branches better air circulation and sunlight. This is especially important with trees that tend to form multiple branches at a single point on the trunk, creating a weak zone.

Peter Krumhardt

When a branch breaks off in the wind or is cut too far from where it joins the tree, a stub remains. Remove stubs as soon as they are noticed. A stub prevents a protective callus from closing the wound and provides insects with an entry point. Once insects make inroads, moisture and rot can take over. When cutting off an old stub, be careful not to cut into the swollen callus tissue forming near the trunk. It's needed to seal the wound.

Marty Baldwin

You don't have to apply a seal over pruning cuts or broken branches. Allowing a wound to breathe will help it heal faster. Dressings sometimes prevent the growth of callus tissue (the swollen area) and may trap moisture that encourages rot.

Most arborists now use tarlike wound dressings only for special purposes. For example, some insecticidal wound applications might be used to discourage beetles from visiting and possibly spreading oak wilt disease.

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